Over the years I have acquired a few leather jackets.
My first one was from Diesel when I didn't know about Diesel. I bought it from a shop in downtown Manhattan. I wasn't afraid to ask for a discount. It was a bundled deal. I got a tweed sack jacket from Joshua Blacker used for $10 and I think I paid the jacket for about maybe $300 all in all. Back then it was actually made in Italy. It was a biker's jacket all right. The leather was good and so was the styling. But it wasn't functionally very sound. The sleeves don't have zipper to narrow and cut the wind out. The sleeves aren't designed long enough so it won't ride up to your elbow when you are riding a bike, not that I would ever find out by experience. Or when you hold on a subway strap hanger. (The purchase took place circa 1989 in downtown. Back then I had no Internet, so it was just by looking others' and then I saw the jacket the simple line, it was love at first sight. I got lots of compliments. Then like most other relationships I found out its shortcomings over the years ... but that's another story.)
Then I think I progressed. I bought a car coat from Schott. It has quilt diamond shaped lining. It was warm. It has hidden breast pocket inside and two hand pockets with flaps on the front. The thing is I do put my ungloved hands inside the front pockets when I walk around in the cold. Before long the pocket flaps got kinked and blended out of shape. The coat doesn't come with any centre or side vents. So I don't know why it's a car coat. Maybe it's not called a car coat. When you sit down in a car the coat would got bunched up if you don't unbutton as there are no vents to allow the coat to re-shape when you are sitting down driving a car. (The purchase probably done in Canal Jeans in downtown Manhattan. I loved Canal Jeans. It was probably in the early 1990s. 1994 maybe?)
Then I got another Schott, a 141 café racer jacket. The 1 series is made of naked cow hide while the 641 is made of steer hide. I am not expert of hide but from what I read the steer cow hide is stiffer and treated so it's more water resistant. I own two 141 of different sizes. When you don't know what fits until you own both for a period of time, ha-ha. They both come with removable faux fir liners. They add some warmth but since they are fluffy liners it doesn't give you that smooth putting on and taking off experience. I prefer satin lining so it's smooth to put on and take off. The jacket has two waist pockets and one chest pockets. They come with zippers. The sleeves also come with cuff zippers to block wind out or make your arms look slimmer. I like the zippered pockets so nothing will fall out. It's quite important especially you feel insecure. The liner has an inside leather patched pocket, no zipper though. It features side buckles to adjust the waist to block off wind. But I find the leather strap could be an inch longer; over time as the strap rubs against my bag, the strap just come undone from the buckle, an inch longer strap could probably prevent this from happening. (The first 141 I bought probably form David Z in downtown around 2005 or so, I remember wearing my chunky black cotton mock neck , so I sized it up to 44. Later after a few years I bought another one online, this time a size 42)
My latest is a Schott 125. It's a happy eBay find. The seller for some reason doesn't list it as a Schott (even all the metal snaps have the name Schott over it), instead the seller mistakenly called it Leathercraft based on the cleaning label. So the price is not eBay market price for a Schott jacket. I haven't looked up its vintage based on the tiny label inside the little coin or watch pocket yet. The jacket is very clean inside and out. The pocket lining is almost pristine. So that's a good thing. The jacket misses the detachable liner. Oh well. May as well as this old 125 model, the Schott label is actually on the liner. Compared to my 141, the leather is a touch thinner, that's relatively speaking. Now I know my 141 is really beefy almost like weight training myself simply by putting it on. The 125 doesn't come with a half belt so nothing to flap around. It does come with two belt loops in the front and one in the back. The jacket does come with side laced gussets and cuff zippers. Cuff zippers are nice except on two scenarios. When you want to leave the jacket on to work on your notebook, the zippers would scratch the surface of your very expensive notebook, even though I don't really care that much but it bothers me the zippers are hitting on the aluminum surface. Maybe that's why some other brands have the cuff zipper on the top? Another scenario is when your jacket doesn't really fit you that well and the sleeves become extra long. A biker jacket should have longer sleeves and that's a given. But extra long? When you zip the cuffs up, the sleeves would balloon up and look weird .... After asking on some forum from Schott NYC, their very knowledgable staff member Gail reckons that the jacket was made circa 1985. Wow, that was some 32 years ago.
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