I have a couple of receivers and a transmitter that say
Frequency 433MHz, Service range <= 30m
Sync Speed >= 1/250s
Receiver 2x1.5*AAA battery.
These radio trigger can't do any high speed sync or hypersync or hi-sync ...
However if I were to attach my Nikon SB-800 to the hotshoe of say my D700, Hypersync from my Sunpak 120J is possible.
I need to run a sync cable from my SB-800 to the transmitter. Then connect the receiver to the sync terminal of the 120J.
The D700 is set to do AUTO-FP at 1/250. Honestly I don't know if it's at or above or just above that speed then the camera and the speedlite will do the high speed sync, that's producing pulses of light as if continual lighting for the duration of the exposure.
For this to work relative well, I have noticed the following. There is really no black band on the frame but for high speed and small aperture, say 1/1000 and f/16, the picture looks darker. And the bottom of the picture looks brighter regardless.
Let's say I shoot about 10 ft away subject to 120J, at full power, and it says f/16
My SB-800 is set at 1/128 power as I only use it as a trigger not as a flash.
So here is my settings
D700, at 1/1000, f/8, 2-stops lower than my 120J says.
Sunpak 120J: full power
That's it, full blast and the picture looks good no black bar at the bottom.
Conclusion:
I have a pair of Godox CellsII-N which is bigger and supposedly do some hypersync. But the trigger sometimes fires randomly. So I don't like them. Plus it's only 2, one is transmitter one is used as a receiver. So any time more than 1 light is impossible. Even though most of the time I shoot with one off camera light anyway.
With this SB-800 hack I can run two 120J at full power blasting off and still run at 1/1000 or higher and the triggers is cheap and pretty reliable in my book. It can run at regular sync or hypersync, so it's all good. And if I want I can run the SB-800 as fill flash as well in addition of being a trigger only; so three lights.
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